As part of their 10th Anniversary celebrations, Toby Clarke and his team of experienced guides at Walking Ibiza are circumnavigating the entire coastline of Ibiza. Over 10 consecutive weekends, the team will take us to parts of the island we have never seen before and to enjoy views and experience moments that we will never forget.
‘Around the Island in 10 Walks' will build up into a complete reference series that we hope will inspire you to explore the island on foot. If you need someone to help you find the way, you know who to call…
STAGE 3: ES CUBELLS to Cala Comte
We meet bright and early at 8am outside the church of Es Cubells, the finishing point of last week's route. Today, we're going to walk 30km, all the way from this picturesque village, past secret beaches and the majestic Es Vedra island, towards the famous sunset spot of Cala Comte. The bright sunshine and 22 degrees Celsius that we are once again blessed with betray the date of 31 October 31: Halloween!
WRITER OLIVIA EBELING TAKES UP THE STORY…
As is tradition, Toby reveals his ‘word of the day' for Stage 3: acceptance. ‘Accepting our fate,' I shout out, half-jokingly and half-questioningly. ‘Indeed,' Toby laughs, ‘but it also stands for accepting the people you are walking with today, accepting that they might be faster or slower than you are, and accepting your own abilities.'
We set off, but it's not long before we stop at the first point of interest just behind the church of Es Cubells, where Toby tells us the story of Saint Francisco Palau, a Carmelite monk who was banished to Ibiza in the late 19th century. As well as being credited with establishing the settlement of Es Cubells, Palau became famous for his meditative retreats on the mythical Es Vedra, where he is said to have found enlightenment.
The next stop is a simply breath-taking secret beach called Cala Llentrisca. It dazzles with quaint fishermen's huts, crystal waters and green posidonia meadows that gently sway underneath the sea. I don't care that it's the end of October, and that the water temperature is getting rather ‘fresco', I'm going in! The cold sea stings a little, but the sunlight reflecting in rainbow shards off the white ground below me makes it an unforgettable experience.
Newly refreshed, we tackle the first challenge of the day: a slow 400-metre ascent, via an old fishermen's path, all the way to the top of Cap Llentrisca and the cliffs opposing Es Vedra. As the lactic acid begins to build in our legs, the promise of the ‘best view of Ibiza' keeps pushing us on. And when we reach the top, the vistas are indeed jaw-dropping. Almost half a kilometre below us, the striking rock formation reaches out of a sea that is shimmering in a myriad of different shades of blue. Well worth the sore muscles we undoubtedly have to nurse the next day…
What goes up must come down - and the next hour or so is spent navigating our way down the side of the cliff towards the beach of Cala d'Hort. En route, we pass an energy spiral: a structure made from stones laid out in a shape reminiscent of a snail shell. Toby explains that you pick a little object (like a rock or pine cone, but it can be anything, really) to place in the middle of the spiral. As you walk towards the centre, you think of all the things you are grateful for and the universe will send them back to you tenfold.
When we reach the soft sands of Cala d'Hort, we are still shy of the halfway mark but it feels like we have already made enough incredible experiences to last a lifetime. The steep ascent has tired me out more than the previous walks and I feel very grateful for my ‘lunch break with a view' on Es Vedra. Other walkers are jumping into the sea for a refreshing swim or even squeeze in a cheeky power nap in the sun!
After a few more kilometres spent walking through pine forest, fields and the beautiful Cala Vadella, Toby braces us for the stretch of tarmac that lies ahead. To reach our goal at Cala Comte, we will have to pound the pavement for a while; a route which the more experienced hikers in our group already know and admit can feel a bit drawn out.
I withdraw into my own thoughts, and, for the first time in all three stages, take some time ruminating on Toby's word of the day: acceptance. In 2020, there are many difficult things we have had to – and continue to – accept, and the steady rhythm of my feet make me fall into a little trance. Despite my burning soles, it feels oddly comforting.
With just under 10km left to go, we stop at a local supermarket and pick up some sweets, fizzy drinks and even some refreshing beers for the road. The ‘Time and Space' monument – also known as Ibiza Henge - erected by Circe du Soleil founder Guy Laliberté makes for another fascinating stop, but we soon have to push on to make it to Cala Comte before nightfall. By now, most of us are keen to reach the finishing line.
It's been an amazing day and, for the final couple of kilometres, we walk alongside the setting sun. It's a clear evening and we can see as far as mainland Spain across the sea, the mountain range behind Denia and Calpe set off against the orange sky. ‘I just had to shed a little tear looking at the sunset. It's been an amazing day,' confesses one of the walkers who has signed up to all 10 stages of the Around the Island in 10 Walks series.
With stiff legs and aching feet, we finally stop at Sunset Ashram in Cala Comte: a little bit exhausted, but an awful lot proud of our achievement! As a stunning Full Moon rises over the hilltops, Toby waves us off with the promise that Stage 4 will be easier. I guess we will have to find out…
If you want to join in Stage 4 of the ‘Around the Island in 10 Walks' adventure, from Cala Comte to Cala Salada, you better hurry because spaces are going fast! Are you up to the challenge?
Words: Olivia Ebeling & Tim Dackombe
