Ibiza has quite a lot of past and when you enter the citadel in the old town you'll be quickly transported to it. Walking along Plaza de Vila is to step over many pasts. Times being as they are, you'll find a string of restaurants here and along the way going up to Calle Santa Cruz, you will come to the restaurant La Dispensa. It's a sprawling locale that stuns all the senses and is set over five different sites all next to each other with some quite different style features. Good design is very much part of what they do and you will see this in the unique and clever way the place has been put together. There also a boutique that sells La Dispensa fabrics, some objects and brings you a piece of the La Dispensa lifestyle.
When you look for a place to sit and do a review, you need space, light (for the camera) and preferably not much interruption. In short, we needed quiet and to be left alone and we got it. If though we had wanted something a bit more amidst the people, in a corner, a big table for a noisy group or whatever, it is here. Plus anything that's available in the restaurant can be served in any of the different sites, including the relatively new sushi bar. It's a point of difference that's worth noting as mostly you rely on a single atmosphere: here you get the choice.
Glittering displays
All the different parts are set in old houses of the historic Dalt Vila and you will see this used to great effect with the different styling. There's a quartermaster store you will see in the first building with its jars and bottles or there is the glittering art deco fittings of the building opposite which also has tables in what appears to be a cellar area. There's a mini courtyard, a roman pantry and all the buildings have thick walls that help to keep you cool on a hot day. There are also special secluded rooms for celebrations and lots of outside terrace with lots of tables lined with flowers and palm trees.
The overarching cuisine here is Italian with Mediterranean touches; it's quite distinct and of high quality. For example, the lasagna here is made with duck confit and the ravioli is stuffed with ricotta, mushrooms and caramelised pork. No ordinary pasta dishes these – here you get hand made parcels and noodles with some punchy ingredients that are left to speak for themselves. That is the essence of Italian cooking: fresh ingredients, prepared simply for maximum flavour. If you think that's easy, then I can tell you that it's not.
Raw pleasures
There are four courses on offer on the menu: starters, pastas and rice, “segundos” and desserts. There are also some small aperitif plates to graze on whilst deciding what to eat. We had the entire trio of tartar dishes, one traditional steak and two fish. The steak one is hand cut beef with the usual capers and mustard in there, but with a hint of black truffle that motors this dish to pole position. Then the game changes with the fish ones, taking an old favourite and applying it to the sea. A wild sea bass tarter was flavoured with mango and balanced off with citrus to accentuate the fruit and blend with this delicate fish. The salmon tartar comes with both mango and papaya, with more of the sweetness let in, to balance the pink flesh. All in all equal winners in the starter stakes.
Marvellous mains
There are a lot of great main courses, two of which we sampled. The turbot comes stuffed with sundried tomatoes and flakes of almond, a bright set of flavours for this noble fish, which literally flaked away as we ate it. Steak fans would do no better than to try the gorgeous beef tenderloin, a hugely flavourful cut, cooked to perfection, dribbling out its juices and flavoured with the sweetness of foie gras and caramelised melon. This was an unusual and daring concoction, and one that gets its stripes for inventiveness and deep flavour.
A finish sweeter than sweet
Everyone likes a good ending and the dessert we tried was knockout: a white chocolate brownie with a delicous vanilla ice and roughly chopped pistachios. A naughty finish to a great meal. There are lots of great desserts at this place and we didnt have room for more, but a good tip is to try their famous and very popular Tiramisu. Whatever you choose, expect to be wowed.
You will love what's on offer at La Dispensa as there is something for many tastes in both food and ambience. Then there's the gorgeousness of the place which all combined make this a must try and an experience to remember.
Quick facts
What? La Dispensa
Where? Calle Santa Cruz, 10, Ibiza Town
When? Every day from 7pm to 1am from May to the end of October
Why? It's like a mini-village made restaurant serving fine quality and inventive Italian food
Average spend per head? Around €60 for starter, main course, dessert and a glass of house wine
Veggie Options? Some salads, pasta and tapas
Disabled Facilities? There is a large toilet, that should provide good access. Be aware though that getting to the old town is difficult for wheelchairs
Top tips? Go and let the ambience choose you by looking around, then tuck into some deliciously prepared food. The beautiful boutique shop is definitly worth checking out.
Room for Improvement? We think this is a well thought out restaurant that keeps getting better.
WORDS | Julian Heathcote PHOROGRAPHY | Peter Young
