I'll be the first to say that when I hear that a restaurant is venturing outside the area or country of cuisine it usually offers, I am circumspect. I don't mean the odd pasta or curry dish, which many have inserted into their menus or the terrifying places, which offer everything from around the world done badly. So, when I heard Restaurante Isidoro in Ibiza Town was doing a Thai night on Saturdays, I was a little circumspect as it seemed at odds with the weekly Mediterranean menu. It would also suggest a need for some seriously good chef skills.
Fortunately Menno Sieswerda, the chef does things properly. He started off front-of-house as a waiter and barman and has gradually migrated over the years into the kitchen preparing the food. He used to own his own place, the very successful Como in Santa Gertrudis, so has more than ample experience in the restaurant world. Recently he started working at Isidoro to do the Thai night and at first was sceptical because as he says: “my view is that if you do it, then do it really well or you don't do it at all” he says. Well, he must have done a good job, since after trying his take on Thai, the owner asked him to take charge of the kitchen as head chef.
Scratch spice mixes
And indeed he does do it all this Far East stuff well. He spent some time living in Bangkok trying out the local food and was hooked. In the restaurant he creates a new Thai menu every week. All curry pastes are made from scratch; meaning spices are freshly toasted and ground. Chilli is used but not to excess and the dishes should all be recognisable to anyone who has tried Thai food before. Menno adds “for me it's a very playful cuisine, with a great variety of flavours and aromas.”
Isidoro is based in Ibiza Town opposite the big post office and is open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. There's a great value changing fixed-price menu for €12.50 which is mainly Mediterranean with some international influences. Recent items include creamed cauliflower with blue cheese or pork stewed in white wine. They do some good and surprising vegetarian dishes that even meat lovers like and here the Thai sometimes creeps in, such as with the Thai pumpkin curry as the veggie lunch main the other day. All in all, you'll find a tight menu of some well-prepared plates using very fresh ingredients. The wine list is well chosen so be prepared to get some more off piste selections that you might not find elsewhere.
Coconut and clams
Which bring us to Saturday night's dinner. For all of us it was a Thai triumph at a very reasonably priced €19.50 per person. For each course Menno will come to the table and explain each dish, which is a hallmark of his. We started with a delicious pumpkin soup with coconut milk and lemongrass. It was thick, warming, fresh and a brilliant way to get us started. We followed that with clams cooked in coconut water, this time, with fresh herbs and some chilli. These were sweet, tender, meaty and sparklingly fresh, so much so that one of my colleagues had his nose in a bowl of them and was likely to stay there before thankfully realising they were to share.
Sometimes after starter dishes, what follows can be a let down. Not so. Larb mu, a minced pork salad from Thailand's North-East was sublime with the delicate flavours permeating through and the fresh mint and coriander adding a slew of freshness on top. The Muslim-influenced southern Thai dish of Massaman curry gave us all a much deeper punch of spice to the senses. The chicken was almost falling apart in the mouth, yet retaining just enough bite; the aromatics added their own sweet flavour.
A fine finish
Eating like this does give time for the food to go down and you really get to savour each flavour in the separate dishes. The end of the meal came in the shape of a pineapple sorbet wrapped in a coconut and turmeric crepe. Lightness and a smoulder of solidity to make the perfect finish to an extremely enjoyable night that didn't break the bank at all.
Quick Facts
What? Thai Night at Restaurante Isidoro
Where? Avenida Isidoro Macabich
When? Monday to Saturday for lunch, 1pm-5pm and dinner from 7pm to 11.30pm. Saturday night is Thai Night.
Why? A great interpretation of authentic Thai food for a good price
Average spend per head? Just over €22 for a set, changing Thai menu plus a glass of house wine
Veggie Options? Not on the set Thai menu, though you can ask ahead to see if they will accommodate you. Through the week, there are lots of good veggie dishes.
Disabled Facilities? Not currently, no
Top tips? Go as a group for a fun experience. Couples are well suited too.
Room for Improvement? The food was easy to love. All we'd say is that more people should know about this night.
WORDS: Julian Heathcote PHOTOGRAPHY: Peter Young
