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The Ibiza-Goa Worm Tunnel

A comparative tourism case study.

Sun, sand, a reputation for hedonism, a population of hippies on the run - the holiday destinations of Ibiza and Goa have much in common.

Goa dawn, 2006

Goa dawn, 2006

It is in the last of the features mentioned above that the similarities are most startling. The Med's fave rave isle used to be famous for its crusty outdoor events till the police successfully squashed the scene in the early part of this decade.

Meanwhile even a cursory search on the internet reveals that over the Arabian Sea Goa's psy trancers have also had a tough time of it lately. All anecdotal evidence suggests the number and size of outdoor parties around Christmas and New Year were only a fraction of previous seasons.

We tracked down Dj Pearl (below), Indian lady jay who has experience of both the Goa and Ibiza scenes. The very existence of professionals like her is symptomatic of a culture shift.

Dj Pearl

Pearl

Spotlight: "An article on Goagroove.com says the club culture in Goa has "overtaken raves" - would you agree?"
Pearl: "To a certain extent. The authorities came down hard this year and didn't allow many raves."

She says the commercial clubs are "alright" but for a lot of people the Goa outdoor trance scene was where "it" all started.

"It" of course being a loosely aligned worldwide movement whose common characteristics consist of little more than a love of repetitive beats and a spirit of togetherness fostered by intense shared experiences.

Spotlight: "What's the scene like in Ibiza compared to India?"

Pearl: "They're two different worlds, but I love them both. Ideally there'd be a worm tunnel between them. In Goa some places are open till late, here in Mumbai we've had club owners fighting with the police."

Sweet Lake, Goa - January 2006When the globe-strolling Spotlight Party Research Unit hit Goa in January we encountered few opportunities for lysergic-laced loopiness. We were handed flyers to one rave at Sweet Lake (right), a fresh water lagoon north of Arambol beach, but several hours after the advertised start time there was still no music or indeed any sign of a sound system. The cops were in attendance however. It was a pity as one decent blow out would have complemented nicely the extra-mellowness of the rest of our stay.

But Ibiza face Jason Bull (below), of Base Bar and Es Vive fame, had no such difficulties in locating an authentic brain-frying trance mash up. Upon returning to their Anjuna villa on New Year's Day his party discovered a full-fledged rave not 300 metres down the beach.

Jason Bull (left) & friends in Goa, January 2006

Jason Bull (left) & friends at Anjuna, January 2006

He and his crew weren't the only Ibiza vets on r'n'r. Ryan O'Gorman, Electric Sexer and underground Ibiza dj of note was also cruising the streets. Pearl told us she'd also brought Space ressie Pete Gooding to India.

However it's perhaps too far of a stretch to say that if you like Ibiza you'll also dig Goa. For a start the geography is completely different - one is an island about the size of greater London, the other is a small province on the coast of the second most populous country in the world. The poverty so apparent in the big cities in India is not so prevalent here, however tourists are likely to encounter ladies with babies asking for "baksheesh".

The gap between rich (you) and poor (most everybody else) means that it is uncommon to sit on the beach for longer than 30 minutes without someone attempting to prise rupees from you. It's hard not to get aggravated when the same guy asks every day if you want to buy the same low quality jewellery.

coconut lady, Goa - January 2006

coconut lady - January 2006

Other temper-fraying situations occur when groups of Indian men pass by any female in a swim suit and stare in what is to Western eyes a particularly invasive manner. It's a brave girl who goes topless but for some reason it's perfectly acceptable for guys to wear these thongs:

thonged man, Goa - January 2006

thonged man - January 2006

Committed naturists could probably get in a boat and find a secluded beach further north or south but there's no place to collectively let it all hang out, one of the chief attractions for many Ibiza-heads.

Our pick for food and chilled live music is White Pyramid on Arambol beach.

cows, Arambol - January 2006

cows, Arambol - January 2006

Get about on a scooter for 150-200 rupees (3 - 4 euros) per day. For longer journeys fly to most locations in India via the recent proliferation of budget airlines. If you've got a bit of time and a partner for travel scrabble, take an even more budget train.

Check the forums at indiamike.com for a good all-purpose info and isratrance.com for more specific trance party tips.

Enjoy!

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